During the mapmaking excursion, when we picked up a number of meals, we were actually "ghosting," or visiting. In Kazakh, Konikka barduk. This is pretty common, but the seven of us (Amanda, Yasameen, Teresa, Jon, Ryan, Tim, and I) were particularly well treated because we're American guests. For tea, the women and girls prepare a main course, usually a combination of grain products and meat. The rest of the table is covered in cookies, chocolates, jams of all kinds, honey, bread, sausage, cheese, Korean Salad, cucumbers, tomatoes, and tea cups. It's AMAZING. Everyone spoons jam. That's the best thing about Kazakhstan: eating as much raspberry jam straight from the spoon as you want. We do it with honey, too, and there's always more, because people make gallons of jam every Sunday. The hostess serves tea. It's black tea, sometimes with milk, sometimes without. As soon as you're done with a cup, she'll hold out her hand and say: "Shai sh." Which means "drink more tea." It's a splendid life we live.